My senses are alive! Since I walked wearily into Durango two days ago I have been intoxicated with the colours, noises and tastes of this energetic culture. I should feel exhausted by the long journey to get here, but instead I'm invigorated and ready to explore.

The noise is deafening. Drums beat constantly. Vibrantly dressed dancers twirl, twist and shake to their beat in front, behind, alongside me. At the side of a dusty street, a smiling man thrusts a warm, floury parcel into my hands as I scrabble for coins. It smells delicious.

The intense flavour of the chorizo hits me first, then just a hint of garlic tickles my taste buds before the jalapeno peppers kick in. I can tell these are chipotle chillies, jalapenos that have been slowly smoked over wood chips. Wow – a taste sensation that really packs a punch!

I saunter slowly through the town in search of the bus station that will take me away from this wonderful place and on to somewhere new and just as fascinating. As I turn a corner, I stumble across a shop offering the brightest, most striking figs I've ever seen. I stop and fill up my little canvas bag. The girl who serves me tells me her grandmother eats them mixed with yoghurt and honey. I promise to try this when I get back to Dellcombe Bottom.

The bus station is straight ahead but my host Jorge suddenly appears. Tonight, he says, fireworks will light up the mountains behind the town as the festival gets into its full swing. I agree to stay one more night – glad for any reason to extend my Mexican adventure.